Furore

Furore is situated about halfway between Amalfi and Positano, only a few miles from Praiano. The "fjord of Furore" is not to compare to the real fjords, but some walks in the region are really worthwile.

Sentiero dell'Agave in Fiori

We walk from our B&B Villa Frantoio in the direction of Praiano (without descending to the Strada Statale). At the Chiesa di San Giovanni Baptista, we take the stairs down and walk between the houses to the Marina di Praia. Just past the tunnel and the bridge begins the walk to the Chiesa di San Elia. The vegetation is very different from the previous hike. We walk between the green of the valley of the Praia.

In the beginning there are enough signs, but once we leave the last houses behind us, the indications disappear. Someone, long ago, passed here with a pot of yellow paint to paint the markings but this seems indeed "long ago". Once, at a fork, we make the wrong choice, but it soon becomes obvious we took the wrong way as the path completely disappears.

After a few hundred meters we walk again just above the coastline, with spectacular views of Praiano. We are still not convinced to follow the right path, until we get to the Passegia del Amore (where some poems bring us in a romantic mood, even though we do not understand all of them).

A hundred meter further we see the Chiesa di San Elia, unfortunately closed. Opposite the "Furore Inn" attracts our attention. A luxurious 5-star hotel with an almost 'Olympic' pool. We promise each other "yet" to come back here, "one day".

Sentiero delle Volpe Pescatrice

At the start of the descent to the fjord, at the first split, we are again in doubt, but the instructions of a local lady are clear: “Semper Scendere” or “always down”. It appears again to be a myriad of stairs that lead down to the fjord. Our calves are clearly not satisfied. At a new crossing, we follow the previous instructions and follow the stairs down.

Here we meet, after more than two hours walk, the first oncoming pedestrians . They bring us the good news that 100 meters further there is a bar & restaurant. We must penetrate into the kitchen before we detect any sign of life, but mom and son jump up to prepare us in no time a delicious pasta "frutti di mare".

The fjord of Furore is one of the small type, but the colorful boats on the nearby beach give a pretty sight. We go up on the bridge to admire the cave from there. From there you also have a nice view of the of the fishermen dwellings that are pasted against the cliff. Surely regrettable that most visitors to the Amalfi coast should behold all this beauty from their bus, that only can halt here for a while.

Sentiero delle  Pipistrelli Impazitti

We are far from tired and want to further explore the cave. On top of the bridge begins the “path of the bats” (at least we suppose). The path goes up steeply again. The stairs are roughly sewn into the rock with an average height of over 30 centimeter. Regular rest is not a luxury.

We ignore the road to the cave, because of unclear instructions. On the top the "Punta di Tavola" shows not really to be a lookout, because it is also marred by a power pole. On the hillside it is full of lemon trees, covered with black and green nets.

We take the asphalt road towards Conca dei Marini, a slight descent and a real relief for the calves. In one of the first houses, we see in an open gate some workers busy packing lemons. We get permission to take a picture and get a giant lemon as a gift.

Further on we pass an artisanal limoncello-distillery. The owner has just started to make a mix for a melon liqueur, but jumps a little later on one of his boilers to show us his brew in a barrel filled with lemon peel, the base of the artisanal limoncello.

The road runs further down, so easy that we choose to walk through to Vettica, instead of going down another few hundred steps. Then by bus back to Praiano, though ... the bus is full and simply leaves us behind. So car stop is another way. It still takes half an hour before a talkative cook, on his way to work in Praiano, gives us a lift. For the tasting, he refers us to the bar, a little further, which unfortunately is closed. So we have to continue 'on water and bread'.

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